Paris (part 2), France

April 2023 

With so much to do in the 4 days we spent in Paris, I've decided to separate it into 4 areas: Montmartre, Paris (part 1), Paris (part 2) and Versailles.

 MONTPARNASSE

For a long time Montparnasse was the "Camden" of Paris. It was frequented by 20th century creative talents: Ernest Hemingway, Picasso, James Joyce, Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre, Henry Miller and Oscar Wilde.
Nowadays might not be as popular as in its heyday, but it's still vibrant with plenty of traditional cafés, restaurants, and some touristic attractions: Catacombs of Paris, La Tour Montparnasse, Montparnasse Cemetery, Foundation Cartier pour l'Art Contemporain, etc. 

Gare Montparnasse links Paris to Brittany, making it a natural location for Bretons to set up restaurants and crêperies in the area, especially in Rue Montparnasse and Boulevard Edgar Quinet.
Following a friend's recommendation, we had the tastiest crêpes at this small but very cosy La Creperie Bretonne.

Good to know: A crêpe is made of white flour while a gallete is made of buckwheat flour.

Luxembourg Gardens

Nestled in the heart of the left bank of the Seine, Jardin du Luxembourg is just a short walk from Montparnasse.

The garden is divided into two halves: French and English style gardens, and they meet in the middle at the large fountain, with the Senate building just behind.
The garden creation started in 1612 when the widow of King Henri IV, Marie de Medici, constructed the Luxembourg Palace as her new residence.
A perfect spot to enjoy a picnic like a true Parisian, the garden is home to numerous statues, pony rides, pètanque and views of the Pantheon and Tour Eiffel.

LES MARAIS (3rd and 4th arrondissements)

Ornated with beautiful private mansions, small narrow streets, art galleries, independent shops and cafes, Les Marais is one of the most popular districts of the city with an interesting mix of new and old.

Place des Vosges

This beautiful square dates back to 1605, being the oldest public square in Paris, and was home to many notable French historical figures. It's surrounded by beautiful buildings (including Victor Hugo's apartment) and art galleries.

Maison de Victor Hugo
6 Place des Vosges

Once Victor Hugo's home, now a museum with breathtaking views of Place des Vosges. The author of Les Miserables and the Huntchback of Notre-Dame lived here from 1832 to 1848, just before his political opposition to Napoleon and exile. 

Église Saint Paul Saint Louis

Situated on Rue Saint-Antoine in Les Marais, is this 17th-century Baroque church.
It was commissioned by King Louis III and the Jesuits, with Cardinal Richelieu (I'm sure you remember the name from the 3 Musketeers) presiding over the inaugural Mass in 1641. 

Hotel de Sens and Bibliotèque Forney

Located in Les Marais, this 15th century Gothic-style mansion with gables, turrets and formal gardens, nowadays hosts the Fourney art library.
A cannonball is still lodged on its façade since 1830 from the riots during the revolution. It's small and only takes a minute to see it, but definetely not a miss.

 Hôtel de Ville

This stunning Renaissance Revival building in Les Marais is the main Parisian Town Hall. With views of the Seine and across the water from la Conciergerie, it houses the Mayor's office and city council, and often hosts exhibitions and ceremonies.
You can visit for free to admire its lavish interiors, but it's recommended to book a tour.

ÎLE DE LA CITÉ

Île de La Cité is one of the two natural islands on the Seine in central Paris, and the birthplace of the city. In the 4th century, it was the site of the fortress of the area governor for the Roman Empire.
In the 12th century, its religious importance increased with the building of Notre-Dame and the royal chapel of Sainte-Chapelle.
Nowadays, a vibrant  and historic destination for tourists, you can explore other than the famous monuments, such as the beautiful Marché aux Fleurs (flower market), view the "Point Zéro" plaque, marking the centre of Paris, or just walk the narrow streets with endless choices of eateries and shops.

Notre-Dame Cathedral

The famous Notre-Dame de Paris, is a medieval Catholic cathedral on the Île de la Cité. Its construction started in 1163 and it took nearly 200 years to complete. In 2019 it suffered a devastating fire and went through a massive restoration for 5 years. At the time of our visit, it was still under restoration and closed to the public.

 Pont Neuf

Pont Neuf, or New Bridge, is in the fact the oldest standing bridge accross the river Seine. Completed in 1607, it connects the île de la Cité to both Left and Right Banks. 
With 12 arches in total, decorated with 381 grotesque faces (mascarons) and an equestrian statue of King Henry IV, it offers views of the Louvre, Tuileries, Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle, as well as a popular spot for strolls.

 Palais de la Cité and La Conciergerie

 

This medieval Palace was an occasional residence of the Kings of France from the 6th to the 12th century, and the permanent residence from the 12th to the 14th century. Since then, it has been the centre of the French justice system, and also referred to as Palais de Justice.
La Conciergerie is a key part of the former royal palace, and the focus of the complex. It's the former courthouse and prison in Paris, in which Marie Antoinette, among others, were held and tried during the revolution. 

 Île de Saint-Louis 

Île de Saint-Louis is the other natural island in the river Seine . Very small in size, without major touristic attractions, it's connected to the main city by 4 bridges. It is well-known for its ice cream, Berthillon, similar to Italian gellato, with lots of different flavours, and it can be found all over the place.

 Cimitière du Pére-Lachaise 
20th arrondissement

With several cemeteries in Paris where famous people were buried, we chose Pére-Lachaise Cemetery on the 20th arrondissement. It's the largest and most prestigious cemetery in Paris.
This vast tree-lined burial site covers 44 hectares and contains 70 000 plots, including Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Maria Callas, Edith Piaff, Balzac, Proust, Chopin, Marcel Marceau, and many others. It's impossible to see all in only a few hours as they are all over the place, but we managed to see quite a few.