Montmartre, Paris

 April 2023

With so much to do in the 4 days we spent in Paris, I've decided to separate it in 4 different areas: Montmartre, Paris (part 1), Paris (part 2) and Versailles.

MONTMARTRE

Located on a hill on the 18^th arrondissement, Montmartre boasts the most romantic view of the city from the iconic Sacré-Cœur Basilica.
Artists have historically been attracted to Montmartre since Renoir and Toulose-Lautrec and it’s still a vibrant and bohemian village, dotted with cobblestones streets, cafés, artist studios and cabarets.

Sacré-Coeur Basilique

With an enormous dome which is visible from various parts of Paris, Le Sacré-Coeur is situated on the top of Montmartre, a 130 meters hill, with a panoramic breathtaking view of Paris.
In the surrounding areas of the Basilique are known as the painter’s neighbourhood, a very unique atmosphere with lots of restaurants, shops, cafés and small streets.
Just around the corner from Sacré-Coeur is Place du Tertre, one of the most famous squares of all of Paris and world-famous for its painters, cafés, and ambiance.

Murs de je t’aime (Wall of love)

As one of the most romantic cities in the world, it should come as no surprise that there’s literally an entire attraction dedicated to love.
Located in Jehan Rictus Garden Square, the 40 square metre wall has in total 612 tiles in enamel lava, 311 ways to write I love you, in 250 languages.
The red bits scattered throughout the piece are broken pieces of a heart and are a poetic representation of the human race, who as a collective have been torn apart by the lack of love in many parts of the world. When pieced together, the red bits would form a complete heart and full symbolism of love.

Van Gogh's apartment
54 Rue Lepic

Although there isn’t much to see or a museum, only a plaque, if you are around, drop by and let your imagination wander. Vincent Van Gogh lived here with his brother Theo between 1886 and 1888.
“View of Paris from Vincent’s Room in the Rue Lepic” was painted here, from the fourth-floor apartment with a great view of Paris.

Moulin da La Galette
Blute-Fin (1622 ) - Rue Durantin
Radet (1717) - 83 Rue Lepic

These are the last two windmills of the 14 in Montmartre.
Firstly used to grind flour, later became a "guinguette", a place where you eat flat brown bread with a glass of milk, which was replaced by a glass of wine.
Eventually guinguette became a cabaret. In 1834 the place was extended and became a popular and iconic open-air dancing hall with gardens.
Radet was restored in 1978 but has never been used again.
The windmills have inspired many painters for many years: Corot, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Van Gogh and Willette.
Renoir painted the famous "Le bal du moulin de la Gallette" in 1876.

Le Passe-Muraille (statue on the wall)

Located on Rue Norvins and Rue Girardon, a statue by sculptor Jean Marais (1989) and inspired on Marcel Aymês’ “Le passe-muraille”, is an homage to a famous work of French literature representing a fictional character Leon Dutilleud, who had the power to walk through walls.

Avenue Junot and Villa Lèandre

Villa Léandre

From Rue Girardon go straight to Avenue Junot, one of the most prestigious streets in Paris, lined with former private Art Deco mansions and apartment buildings ornated in Art Noveau style. Formerly just a street, and although only 450 meters long, it was promoted to avenue in 1910. It’s a very popular residence for celebrities.
At number 23 is Hotel Particulier Montmartre, former residence of the Hermes family. It’s a very exclusive hotel with only 5 suites and even though it’s in one of the most touristic areas, is very secluded, probably the reason why celebrities such as Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie, Tom Hanks, Scarlett Johansson chose to stay here.
Villa Léandre is a cul-de-sac just off avenue Junot, a very pretty alley with chic charming cottage-type houses built in 1926.

Allée des Brouillards (Misty Alley)

This quiet and unusual alley is nestled between Place Dalida and Place Casadesus. Many renowned artists lived in the pavilions of the alley such as Renoir, Poulbort and Kees van Dongen.

Place Dalida

On the corner of Rue d’Abreuvoir and Rue Girardon, there’s Dalida Place, a picturesque little square named after the iconic Egyptian singer, Dalida.
Dalida lived in the area for many years and was an important figure of Montmartre, so in 1997, 10 years after her death, a statue of the star was placed in the square.
A superstitious belief that if you touch her breasts, you will have good luck, hence the "golden colour".

La Maison Rose

On the corner of Rue de L'Abreuvoir and Rue des Saules, is La Maison Rose, one of the most iconic and famous houses in Paris.
In the 1900’s Laure Germaine Gargallo (Picasso muse) was friend of many artists in Montmartre. She got married with the painter Ramon Pichot Girones in 1905 and together they bought this house, painted it pink and opened a restaurant in 1908.
La Maison Rose was born and many talented artists have been here: Utrillo, Picasso, Camus, Edith Piaff. In fact, Utrillo painted it so many times in the 1900’s that it became famous worldwide as “la petite maison rose” (the small pink house).

Les Clos Montmartre

On the corner of Rue Saint-Vincent and Rue des Saules, is one of the last vineyards in Paris.
It exists since 1933, produces 1500-2000 bottles a year from the 1600 feet of vines and belongs to the city of Paris.
The wine can only be bought in a few places: Musée de Montmartre, La Maison Epicuriens, restaurant Le Negociant or on their website.
Unfortunately, it was close to the public but it’s easily seen from outside.

Au Lapin Agile
22 Rue des Saules

Across the street from Clos Montmartre is the Cabaret Au Lapin Agile.
Opened in 1860 and it's still active, making it the last 19th century cabaret celebrating French music in Paris.
A very popular spot for artists such as Picasso, Modigliani, Apollinaire, Toulouse, Lautrec, Utrillo.
It was also here that the most famous prank of Montmartre happened. Roland Dorgelés presented a painting “Sunset over the Adriatic” supposedly made by an artist named Boronali, as part of the new Excessivist movement. It became a very big success, but neither Boronali nor the Excessivist movement existed. In reality, the painting was made by Lolo, a donkey owned by the cabaret’s owner, with a paintbrush attached to his tail.

Moulin Rouge
82 Boulevard de Clichy

When it comes to Paris, the legendary Moulin Rouge is just as iconic as the Eiffel Tower or the Louvre.
We didn’t go in but it was a nice experience to see this iconic red windmill with flashy neon lights at night.
It is located in Pigalle, also known as the red-light district, at the foot of Montmartre.
The Moulin Rouge opened in 1889, same year as the Tour Eiffel, and although it isn’t the only cabaret in the district, it became an emblem of the Parisian nightlife and a symbol of creativity, freedom and decadence, la Belle Époque. Not only it introduced the cancan dance to the world, but it also played a significant role in popularizing cabaret performances and paved the way for modern nightclubs.