Athens, Greece
It’s exactly 37 years since the very first time I set foot in Athens.
Since then, I’ve visited Athens many times, but always for a very short time, a day or two at most, either on my way to or from Kos, where I lived for a few years, or while working on cruise ships.
Athens was always somewhere I passed through, rather than somewhere I stayed. Over the years, there were so many brief encounters, a quick visit here and there, but never enough time to slow down and truly discover the city. Until now!
This year, we chose Athens for our city break. Sometimes, you have to come back to a place at the right time.
As we reached Athens International Airport, we made our way to the Metro. It may seem a little tricky at first, but it’s actually quite easy to find. Here are a few simple steps:
✈️ Exit the arrivals hall and follow the signs for Trains/Metro.
🚶 Cross the pedestrian bridge outside the terminal.
⬇️ On the other side, take the escalator down to the Metro station.
🎟️ Buy your ticket and head down to the platform.
🚇 Look for Line 3 / Blue Line, which takes you into central Athens.
The journey into the city centre (Syntagma Square or Monastiraki) takes around 30-40 minutes.
One thing to be aware of, though: direct trains aren’t running constantly, so depending on the time you travel, you may have to wait for the next one or change trains. This is particularly important when travelling back to the airport. Allow plenty of extra time, as you may have a longer wait, and the journey can take considerably longer than expected.
We stopped at Monastiraki Station, and this was our very first encounter with the ancient ruins of Athens, right inside the station.
Ruins at Monastiraki Metro StationMONASTIRAKI
It’s quite something to arrive in modern-day Athens and discover that, beneath your feet, traces of the ancient city are still there.
Beneath the cobblestones of Monastiraki lies the ancient Eridanos River. Once a small stream flowing from the foothills of Lycabettus Hill, it made its way through the ancient Agora and Monastiraki Square, eventually reaching Kerameikos.
The brick tunnel that once carried the Eridanos River now forms part of a small open-air museum at Monastiraki Station, allowing visitors to see a fascinating piece of ancient Athens right beneath the modern city.
Tzistarakis MosqueStanding proudly in the square is the Tzistarakis Mosque, an Ottoman-era mosque and one of the area’s most distinctive landmarks.
Beneath the mosque and along part of Hephaestus Street are the remains of old shoemakers’ workshops. Some of these historic spaces have now been turned into souvenir shops, creating a fascinating mix of ancient ruins and modern-day Athens.
Where Hephaestus Street meets Abyssinia Square, you’ll find another little piece of Athens’ history.
This was where the first auction in Athens was held, adding yet another layer of history to this fascinating corner of Monastiraki.
Today, Abyssinia Square is still known for its antique shops, flea-market stalls and old-world atmosphere, a place where the history of Athens feels very much alive.
The famous flea market is open daily, but Sunday is the best day to visit, when the area really comes alive with stalls, antiques, vintage finds and all sorts of treasures.
Church of Panagia Pantanassa
Lower than the surrounding ground level, the Church of Panagia Pantanassa is another one of those tiny churches that you could almost, but not quite, blink and miss.
One of the oldest churches in Athens, its name comes from the Greek for the Virgin Mary. Its origins are somewhat unclear, with different sources dating the church to either the 7th or 9th century.
And right next to Tzistarakis Mosque is Hadrian’s Library, another reminder that in Athens, history seems to be everywhere you look.
HADRIAN'S LIBRARY
Hadrian’s Library was built by Emperor Hadrian in 131-132 AD.
The impressive complex was created not only to house an extensive collection of literary works and legal archives, but also as a place for lectures, philosophical discussions and schools.
Hadrian's Library
The ruins, with their impressive portico entrance to the courtyard and magnificent Corinthian columns, reflect Hadrian’s ambition to establish Athens as the cultural centre of his empire.
Even in their ruined state, the scale and elegance of the remains give you a sense of just how grand this complex must have been in its heyday.
PLAKA
Just a few minutes' walk from Monastiraki and nestled at the foot of the Acropolis is Plaka, known as the Neighbourhood of the Gods.
Adrianou Street is the main street through Plaka, but the real joy is wandering away from it and getting lost among the narrow, winding lanes.
As you explore, you’ll catch glimpses of the Acropolis between neoclassical buildings, pass Byzantine churches, and discover countless cafés, restaurants and little shops tucked into the streets.
And then there’s Tripodon Street, said to be the oldest street in Europe, a little piece of ancient Athens still woven into the fabric of the modern city.
Plaka is one of those places where you can simply wander without a plan and feel as though you’ve stepped into another time.
PSYRRI
Psyrri is one of the most vibrant and colourful neighbourhoods in central Athens. Known for its graffiti-covered streets, lively nightlife, artisan shops and creative street art, it has a very different atmosphere from the ancient sites nearby.
The
best way to experience Psyrri is simply to wander through its narrow
backstreets, where colourful murals and striking pieces of street art
seem to appear around every corner.
This neighbourhood is particularly lively, with
cafés, bars and restaurants filling the square throughout the day and
into the evening.
And then there’s Little Kook, the wonderfully eccentric fantasy café on Karaiskaki Street, famous for its elaborate and ever-changing decorations.
ACROPOLIS & The PARTHENON
A visit to the Acropolis is, of course, a must when in Athens.
The Acropolis is more than just the famous Parthenon; it is the entire fortified hilltop complex, or citadel, that rises above the city. For centuries, it served as an important religious and civic centre, and its monuments remain some of the most recognisable symbols of ancient Greece.
The Acropolis of Athens covers around 3 hectares and includes five key landmarks: the Parthenon, Erechtheion, Temple of Athena Nike, Propylaea, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
With steep climbs, uneven open-air terrain and plenty of visitors, exploring the Acropolis can feel a little overwhelming at times. But with a bit of planning, comfortable footwear and a rough idea of your route, you can make the most of your visit and see all the main highlights without feeling rushed.
We chose to visit later in the afternoon and stay until sunset, and it turned out to be a fantastic decision.
By then, the crowds had started to thin out, making it a much more relaxed experience. And the sunset was simply magnificent; watching the golden light spread across Athens and the ancient monuments was truly unforgettable.
If you’re planning a visit, I’d definitely recommend going later in the day. You get to experience the Acropolis in a quieter atmosphere, possibly avoid queues and, if you’re lucky, finish your visit with an incredible Athenian sunset.
The Propylaia is the monumental gateway and grand entrance to the Acropolis.
Built
in the 5th century BC, it was designed to create an impressive approach
to the sacred hill. As you pass through its massive marble columns and
make your way towards the monuments beyond, it’s easy to imagine how
dramatic the arrival must have felt to visitors in ancient Athens.
The Parthenon
The Parthenon was dedicated to the goddess Athena and was built in the 5th century BC.
One of the most fascinating things about the Parthenon is that, although it appears perfectly straight and symmetrical, it actually isn’t. Its architects cleverly used optical illusions to create the impression of absolute perfection.
The columns feature subtle curves, known as entasis, while the platform itself is slightly curved rather than completely flat. These carefully calculated details were designed to compensate for the way the human eye perceives straight lines and make the building appear flawless.
Nearly 2,500 years later, the precision and ingenuity behind its design are still astonishing.
The Erechtheion
The Erechtheion is one of the most iconic temples on the Acropolis, built between 421 and 406 BC.
Known for its unusual and complex design, the temple is particularly famous for its Porch of the Caryatids, six beautifully sculpted maiden figures that appear to support the roof in place of traditional columns.
The Temple of Athena Nike is a small but beautifully positioned temple dedicated to Athena Nike, the goddess of victory.
It stands on a bastion overlooking the entrance to the Acropolis, giving it a commanding position above the approach to the sacred hill.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus is a magnificent stone theatre built in the 2nd century AD on the southern slope of the Acropolis.
Originally built as a venue for musical performances, the theatre could accommodate thousands of spectators. Despite being almost 2,000 years old, it is still used today for concerts and performances, making it a wonderful example of ancient history continuing to be part of modern Athens.
With the Acropolis rising above it, the setting is truly spectacular.
Ancient Theatre of Dionysus
Also on the southern slopes of the Acropolis is the Ancient Theatre of Dionysus, regarded as the earliest known theatre of ancient Greece and often described as the birthplace of Western drama.
Dedicated to Dionysus, the god of theatre and wine, this is where the great plays of ancient Athens were performed, including works by playwrights such as Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes.
Standing among the ancient stone seats, it’s quite incredible to think that audiences were gathering here more than 2,500 years ago to watch some of the earliest dramas and comedies ever written.
And then there are the views from the Acropolis, simply magnificent.
From up here, Athens stretches out in every direction, with the city spreading towards the sea and the surrounding mountains rising in the distance.
The combination of the ancient monuments beneath your feet and the vast panorama of modern Athens all around you is quite breathtaking. It’s one of those views that makes you stop for a moment and simply take it all in.
ACROPOLIS MUSEUM
Before visiting the Acropolis, it’s well worth spending some time at the Acropolis Museum.
The museum gives you a much better understanding of the history, architecture and people behind the monuments you’re about to see. It brings the ancient world to life and provides useful context for the Parthenon, the Erechtheion and the other buildings on the Acropolis.
We found that visiting the museum first made our time on the Acropolis much more meaningful; you recognise what you’re looking at and better appreciate what you’re seeing.
So, if you have the time, visit the museum before heading up to the Acropolis. It really helps put everything into perspective.
AEROPAGUS HILL
Located on the northwestern side of the Acropolis, Areopagus Hill holds great historical, cultural and religious significance and has played an important role in Athens since antiquity.
The hill was probably named after the ancient god of war,
Ares, known as Mars by the Romans. Ancient Greeks believed that the site was connected to several important mythological events, including the first murder trial conducted by the gods.
According to legend, this was where Poseidon brought Ares to trial for killing his son, Halirrhothius. The hill was also said to be the setting for the trial of Orestes, after he killed his mother, Clytemnestra.
Beyond the mythology, the hill became home to the oldest supreme court of ancient Athens, where important criminal and civil cases were heard.
Its legacy continues today: Greece’s Supreme Court for civil and criminal law is still known as the Areopagus, keeping alive the name and connection to this remarkable place.
ANAFIOTIKA
Tucked beneath the Acropolis is Anafiotika, a tiny Cycladic-style village that feels completely out of place, in the best possible way, in the heart of Athens.
With its whitewashed buildings, narrow lanes and little churches, it feels more like a Greek island than a neighbourhood in the middle of the capital. Among them are the 17th-century churches of Agios Georgios tou Vrachou and Agios Simeon.
Anafiotika was created in the mid-19th century by builders from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to work on King Otto’s new capital. They recreated a little piece of their island home on the slopes of the Acropolis.
It’s a wonderful place to wander, quiet, picturesque and full of character.
PNYX HILL
Pnyx Hill - view from the Acropolis
The Pnyx is a historic rocky hill in central Athens, located about 500 metres west of the Acropolis. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of democratic assembly, making it one of the most historically significant places in the city.
The Pnyx forms part of the scenic Western Hills of Athens, together with Philopappos and the Hill of the Nymphs.
View from the summit of Pnyx Hill
The views from here are fantastic, with a particularly beautiful perspective of the Parthenon. It’s also a much quieter alternative to the often-crowded Acropolis.
It’s a peaceful spot today, but standing here and imagining ancient Athenians gathering to debate and shape the future of democracy makes the place feel incredibly special.
The paths and rocky surfaces can be uneven and slippery in places,
so take care as you explore and wear comfortable walking shoes.
ANCIENT AGORA
Ancient Agora
Less than a five-minute walk from Monastiraki lies the Ancient Agora of Athens, once the beating heart of ancient Athenian life.
The Agora was far more than a marketplace. It was a place for political and social gatherings, public debates and intellectual discussions, and it was also home to law courts and civic activities. This was where Athenians came together to discuss, argue, trade, make decisions and shape the future of their city.
Temple of Hephaestus
The Temple of Hephaestus, one of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples, stands within the Agora, alongside the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, which once housed shops and meeting places.
Some of the greatest thinkers and figures of the ancient world walked these very streets: Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Pericles and Diogenes, and centuries later, the Apostle Paul also visited Athens and spoke at the Agora.
Standing here, surrounded by the remains of this extraordinary gathering place, it’s easy to understand why Athens is so often described as the cradle of Western civilisation. This was a place where politics, philosophy, democracy and everyday life came together, and where ideas were debated that would influence the world for centuries to come.
Alongside the Ancient Agora is the Roman Agora of Athens, built during the Roman period as a commercial and public centre.
At the corner of the site stands one of Athens’ most fascinating monuments, the Tower of the Winds. Built in the 1st century BC, this remarkable octagonal tower is often described as the world’s first meteorological station.
It was designed to measure and record the weather, with each of its eight sides representing a different wind. The tower even included a water clock, making it an extraordinary combination of architecture, science and technology for its time.
The Gate of Athena Archegetis (Roman Agora)
The Gate of Athena Archegetis marks the entrance to the Roman Agora, connecting it with the Ancient Agora.
This impressive monumental gateway is made up of four grand columns, creating a striking entrance to the Roman marketplace.
Another fascinating reminder that ancient Athens was not only a centre of philosophy and politics, but also of scientific innovation.
MOUNT LYCABETTUS
Mount Lycabettus - view from the Acropolis
Legend has it that Mount Lycabettus was created by the Goddess Athena.
Athena was carrying a huge piece of limestone to help build the Acropolis when something happened that caused her to drop it, and the great rock became Mount Lycabettus, rising above Athens.
Whether you believe the legend or not, the mountain has become one of the defining landmarks of Athens. And from its summit, you can enjoy some of the most spectacular views across Athens, all the way to the Acropolis and, on a clear day, the Aegean Sea.
Olympic Stadium
At the summit sits the small 19th-century chapel of Agios Georgios, perched beautifully at the top of the hill.
Lycabettus is also renowned as one of the best places in Athens to watch the sunset. We went with high hopes, but unfortunately, with so many people gathered at the summit, it ended up being a little disappointing.
Still, the walk back down the hill was absolutely worth the visit. The views along the way were beautiful, and there was something rather special about watching Athens slowly light up as evening arrived.
There are several ways to reach the top of Lycabettus Hill; you can take a taxi, walk up, or use the cable car. We decided to make things a little easier and took Bolt to go up and walk back down. It turned out to be a great combination: no exhausting climb on the way up, and plenty of time to enjoy the views and atmosphere as we made our way back down on foot.
HADRIAN'S ARCH AND THE TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS
Hadrian's Arch
Hadrian’s Gate and the Temple of Olympian Zeus are two famous ancient monuments located side by side in the heart of Athens.
Together, they offer another fascinating glimpse into the city’s ancient past, from the monumental temple dedicated to Zeus, one of the largest temples in the ancient world, to the impressive marble gateway built in honour of Emperor Hadrian.
Temple of Olympian Zeus
At the time of our visit, the Temple of Olympian Zeus was closed for restoration work, so unfortunately we couldn’t get inside.
We were still able to admire the impressive columns and remains from outside and from a distance, and even from there, you can appreciate just how enormous this ancient temple must have been.
NATIONAL GARDENS
After spending so much time exploring ancient ruins and busy streets, it’s a wonderful place to slow down, wander around and enjoy a little peace and greenery in the middle of the city.
The former Royal Garden of Athens is now a welcoming green oasis right in the heart of the city, next to the Greek Parliament.
The National Garden is a lovely place to escape the busy streets of Athens, with winding paths, shady trees, ponds and a surprising variety of plants and wildlife.
SYNTAGMA SQUARE
Changing of the Guard at Syntagma Square
Syntagma Square, meaning Constitution Square, is the historic and central public square of Athens, right in front of the former Royal Palace, which is now home to the Greek Parliament.
The square takes its name from an important moment in Greek history. On 3 September 1843, citizens gathered here and demanded that King Otto grant a constitution, giving the square its name and an important place in the country’s modern history.
One of the main attractions is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, directly in front of Parliament. Here you can watch the Evzones, Greece’s presidential guards, perform their ceremonial changing of the guard. The ceremony takes place every hour, although the elaborate full ceremony takes place on Sundays.
From Syntagma Square, Ermou Street, Athens’ main pedestrian shopping street, leads off towards Monastiraki, while the Acropolis is also within walking distance.
It’s a busy and vibrant part of Athens, but also a place where you can feel the history of modern Greece unfolding around you.
View from a rooftop bar - Monastiraki
It was wonderful to finally spend more than a day or two here and experience the city properly.
Μέχρι την επόμενη φορά, Αθήνα…
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